hawaii 2012

Saw 2 F-22 Raptors on the runway. Pretty cool. Didn't know there were any out here.

Landed

Gas is 40cents cheaper with Amex Costco Card. John recommends this guide book: http://www.wizardpub.com/bigisland/bigisland.html.

couldn't find the book, but picked up a couple of bottles of wine for the week. I recommend this as Kona doesn't seem to have a nightlife (the bars close at 10 PM)

This is a very charming bed and breakfast just on the outskirts of Kailua-Kona. It's a bit difficult to find, so follow the very detailed instructions in the confirmation email exactly. It is embedded in rich dense foliage, and you wake up to the calls of roosters and turkeys. Breakfast is an impressive spread of assorted fruits (some of which are grown on the property), bread/toast, buns, you can make yourself omelets with eggs laid by their own chickens, or waffles. As you breakfast, you can watch the various birds also take their breakfast at the bird-feeder. This quiet little town doesn't seem to have much of a nightlife, but the Hale Maluhia Country Inn has a huge collection of movies on video and DVD that you can either watch in the family room or bring in your own room. They do have a hot-tub, which is solar heated (so let Ken know early if you are planning to use it).

Prices are reasonable. Be aware this is an old school B&B with a 70's vibe.

http://hawaii-bnb.com
Ken (808) 896-8937; email aloha@hawaii-inns.com

Nice little sushi place that we found on yelp. Apparently, the chef trained under his father, who was also a sushi chef. He opened his first Sushi restaurant in San Francisco, and now has moved to the Big Island and opened his second sushi restaurant. I had the miso soup with short neck clams - which were amazingly tender and nicely miso-flavoured. We also had an assortment of VERY fresh sashimi and nigiri, and a spicy scallop roll. Dessert was a slice of green tea cheesecake. The prices were very reasonable, 50% off as the place is relatively new. The fish was very fresh; go early as the restaurant closes early if they run out of fish. They are also closed on Mondays. BYOB (there is a mini-mart across the strip mall for that purpose)

Just a look-see at this spot. But this would be the place to launch your kayak if you were trying to get to the James Cook Monument

The City of Refuge- didn't quite make it there either as we got sidetracked on an awesome snorkeling jaunt (we were 15 feet away from a school of diving dolphins) at 2-Step just a stone's throw north of there. I recommend reef shoes as you would have to walk over some lava rocks to get in the water for the snorkeling- or just enter the water through the boat ramp.

Stopped here for a bite to eat- the Kalbi plate lunch was very good, as was the seared Ahi and Spinach seaweed wrap. The shaved ice looked amazing (we didn't try it, but it seemed like everyone who stopped by this place got one).

Stopped here for a cup of coffee. They also have a little coffee museum, and the clerk kept giving us free samples of various flavoured/roasted macadamia nuts as we perused. They also sell the fruits of the 50 types of fruit trees they have in the back. You could take a self-guided tour of their fruit tree garden out back.

Charming little church with painted walls and ceilings, beautiful cemetary with statues- worth seeing!

Susan took us to the Pololu Lookout where you can view the valley and also hike down to the beach. Breath-taking views

Susan took us here. It is a beautiful beach park, but it was undergoing some construction which spoiled the natural beauty a bit. Looks like they are building nice bathrooms and picnic areas. I'm sure it will be gorgeous when it's all done. And it wasn't hard to get here at all, paved roads all the way.

We wanted to eat here because we heard it was amazing, but because of time constraints and a long wait we couldn't. But we were able to see one of the waitresses perform a hula. Her name was Chastity, and she just had a baby. The owner said that all the money she earns from the Hula will go towards her baby's college fund.

So pressed for time, we ended up eating here instead. The curry chicken wrap was delicious, as was the teriyaki chicken wrap. While they hand-make it for you, you have the chance to look at the wares and the posters around the cafe.

Each night after sunset the center has a star party where they bring out a bunch of telescopes and train them on various planets, stars and formations. It's free and they give a guided tour of the skies using laser pointers. Well worth sticking around after the sun goes down.

We got up to the visitor information station at around 4 PM, aclimatized for about 30 minutes, got our cold weather clothes on, put on the SPF 70, and drove up the dirt road to the telescopes. It was cold, there was snow on the ground, the air was thin at 13900 feet and you get winded very easily with just a short walk up the hiking trail. The sunset was gorgeous. Back at the visitor information station after dark they set up more telescopes aimed at Jupiter, Orion, other constellations of interest; and the volunteers demonstrated the constellations with powerful laser pointers.

Few words of advice: 4 wheel drive vehicle recommended for the unpaved roads, go with a full tank of gas, dress warm, wear sunscreen and sunglasses, spend some time at the visitor center to get used to the altitude, stay hydrated. do not use a flash-light back at the visitor center during the star-gazing party; they purposefully light everything with red lights so that your eyes get accustomed to the dark and you can see the stars better

The best breakfast joint in Waimea. Portions are huge, especially the pancakes.

The Waipio Valley is sacred, as it was where a young King Kamehameha I was hidden (before he became king). John drove us down with his 4-Wheel Drive. There are waterfalls on the beach and deeper into the valley. At the far end of the beach there is a hike up the mountain with an amazing view of the valley; at the summit the trail takes you over into the next valley (we did not go so far).

Malasadas! Tex is the Krispy Kreme of Big Island, except that their doughnuts are square shaped

John and Susan took us to this beautiful state park, home to 2 waterfalls and a lush tropical rainforest. You have to pay for parking though, but well worth it to keep the park beautiful.

a great place to snorkel, just off Alii drive and right next to keauhou resort, and free parking.

This was a good final waypoint before getting on the plane since it is just a mile north of Kona airport. It is a bit of a drive on unpaved road off the 11 to get to the beach. There weren't as many fish as Kahaluu Beach Park, and you could hear the occasional plane overhead even when your ears are submerged, but at least we saw a turtle feeding underwater. Those creatures can hold their breath for a long time!

This wasn't what it seemed on the website. (but to be fair, maybe I didn't read the website correctly). It is a 2 story-house, but only the top floor is the rental unit; and it is a shared house. Poni (the owner) also has 2 other stand-alone cottages for rent (Coconut cottage and Gingerbread cottage), but the Spyglass House is actually a 3 bedroom unit that occupies the second floor. She rents out all 3 rooms, so you will have housemates. The Master room has it's own bathroom. The Mermaid room and the Blue room have to share a bathroom, but they have direct access to the balcony. We got off to a rocky start, as our housemates in the Mermaid room got burgled right before we arrived. Otherwise, it has been a pleasant stay for a reasonable price. (Actually, there are not that many places to stay in Paia- there is one hotel, and the rest are vacation rentals, or bed and breakfast- except that our bed and breakfast did not provide breakfast- we had a kitchen, a coffee maker, and the host supplied coffee and tea). There is a great little food market in town called Mana Foods which can adequately stock your fridge.

Best Ahi I've ever had bar none.

We had to go back 3 more times for the catch of the day fish plate, Obama burger (ono patty with wasabi butter), and more Ahi sashimi. One of those times I sat next to a guy I used to work with. And embarrassingly, I didn't even notice that he had been gone for 1.5 years.

Came across this studio and gallery on the coastal road 340. I think this is their home, and the gallery is attached to it. They also represent about 50 local artists. They also have a gallery in Paia. Interestingly, they cast their bronze statues in Monterey, CA.

It was a little hike to get down to the Blow hole, but once there it is just hypnotic to watch. You will get wet if you get too close.

Another great place to snorkel. Swim a little way out from the bay and there is an awesome reef.

We forgot to bring snacks, and were hungry after our snorkeling, and found this place in a strip mall in Napili. Delicious fish tacos, even if it is a chain.

White sand beaches along the resort strip; we saw some whales.

The most impressive sight in Lahaina is this Banyan tree, which was imported from India and planted in 1873. It is massive! It has 12 major trunks in addition to it's core, and they built a park around it. It provided us some nice shade to enjoy our Shaved Ice

Actually, we've been coming here almost every night. If you're staying in a rental house with a kitchen and fridge, this is a good place to stock up your pantry. We got our cereal, lactose-free milk, fruit, snacks, water, even dinner from this place. They also have a delicious deli and a salad bar: we have had the Thai squid salad, the couscous salad, dolmas, and roasted chicken breast- all were very good. They also have some delicious mini pies (the strawberry rhubarb sells out fast, so if you see it- grab it!) Parking is always challenging. The store has its own parking lot, but most of the time it is full. There is a public dirt parking lot a little ways up the street though.

A well stocked wine/beer/sake/liquor store in town. We've been coming here every other night since there is no nightlife in Paia. FYI: This store closes at 8 PM on Sundays (or was it Mondays?), but 10 PM on all the other days.

Rick was watching the surfers. Liz was writing her postcards and taking a nap on the beach.
This is also the beach where the turtles hang out at night. We didn't get to see them, but our housemate did. They come out between 7 and 7:30 PM. But the parking lot gates close at 7 PM and a tow-truck is ready to tow your car if it's still there past 7.

Big thumbs up for this place.
A bit pricy, but you're paying for the great service, the fresh fish (all caught within 12-24 hours of consumption), the decor, and an open view of the beach and ocean. We had the 3 fish sashimi and grilled octopus appetizers, followed by a 3 -fish Thai curry, and a refreshing coconut lime sorbet.

And we went back on our last night, sat at the bar and had girly coctails with appetitzers. We got the grilled octopus again because it was that good, and also the wasabi crusted calamari (so tender) and lobster guacamole with various crisps. For dessert we had the black pearl, which was a chocolate mousse with a cake filling, on edible clam shell pastry crust, on top of a chocolate-passionfruit sauce. So delicious!

I heard that sunrise and sunset here are beautiful. We didn't make it to either. And unfortunately, we had lots of clouds when we reached the summit, so could only see the crater through a sheer veil when the winds blew the clouds aside. The roads up to the summit were nicely paved. You do have to pay $10/vehicle to get into the park, but the pass is good for 3 days. FYI: it is pretty cold up at the summit (10,000 feet); you can listen to a recorded weather forecast and summit conditions if you call 866-944-5025 and choose option 4

Little cowboy town with a steak house.

This was on the way to Hana, just around or after mile marker 9. Before we stopped at this hike we had pulled off on a random trailhead, which led us through a bamboo forrest to what looked like a man-made waterway. It was not too pretty, and because of the stagnant water- also a breeding ground for mosquitos.
So compared to that hike, this one was beautiful and very user friendly. The trails were marked and easy to traverse, there were established lookouts and picnic areas. Although the sign at the entrance notes no waterfall access, at one of the picnic areas (where it says trail ends), if you go beyond the end of the trail down a little ways you will reach a little dam, and from there you can see a waterfall. You can't reach it to swim in it though.

At Mile Marker 10 there is a bridge (and as we found out on our drive, most bridges straddle something pretty). At this bridge there was a waterfall and a pool that is swim-able. We parked in a turnout near the bridge and hiked the short distance to the pool. Rick took a dip

Banana bread, strawberry-pineapple-apple banana smoothies

on the way to Hana. Turn off to the Keanae peninsula. There is a crazy ocean view, banana bread stands, mango bread stands, public restroom, and a church that was the only surviving building during the Tsunami of '46

There is a Lava Tube that is accessible to the public just outside of Hana. (there is a sign on the Highway telling you to turn left). Stop by the visitor center, pay a fee (12.5/person), and they will give you a flash-light and optional hard-hat, and send you on your way. The entrance to the Lava Tube is the collapsed ceiling. There are handrails and informational signs at regular intervals along the lava tube for a self-guided tour. Near the end of the Lava tube is a vent wear lava backed up and shot upwards. Just by the entrance to the Lava Tube is a Ti maze.

This is a little museum in town, consists of a cultural center, the old courthouse (which is still in session on one Tuesday a month), the old jailhouse, and 4 traditional Hales.

All the guidebooks and magazines tell you to see this waterfall, yet it's not well marked. One of the magazines described it as being near marker 45 on highway 31, and this one seems to fit the description. Maui has had a dry spell when we visited, but I bet the waterfall looks more impressive when it rains

This is part of the Haleakala State Park, and we still had our pass from when we went to the crater. There is a 2 mile hike that takes you to Waimuku waterfall (didn't make it there due to time constraints, but got to an overlook to look at a waterfall), and there is a shorter loop trail that takes you to the lower pools (Seven Sacred Pools) and the ocean - that was gorgeous. Due to high water, we were not allowed to swim in the pools that day (Park warnings).

After a long day of driving we got to witness a beautiful sunset as we rounded highway 37 near Kihei on the leeward side of Maui.

Launching point for the snorkeling trip to Molokini on the Trilogy II. They are family owned, own 7 boats and take smaller groups of people out for snorkeling and whale-watching. It is a little more pricey than the bigger companies like Pride of Maui, but more intimate and worth the price. There were so many whales out, and we kept stopping to admire them. A couple of them swam right up to the boat, and even swam under the boat. Eventually we reached Molokini for the best snorkeling on the island. It's a sheltered old volacanic crater, and visibility was 100 ft. For $40 the Trilogy rented us an underwater camera and burnt us a CD of our images. After the snorkeling they took us to another spot near Makena Beach where there was more snorkeling, but more importantly, it was the home of the turtles. And then they served us lunch, and sailed back to the harbour leisurely. On our sail back, they turned on the Hydrophone so that we could listen to the sounds of the whales and other oceanic creatures.

We moored the cat about 75 yards from a coral outcrop and dove in to see the turtles. Unfortunately, 3 other boats had been there for about a 45 minutes and just departed to the turtles were laying low. We did get to see this guy who came out for a brief encounter. Luckily I was in the right spot to get this shot.

Very impressive aquarium. We spent an hour in the reef exhibit alone. My favourite part was the tunnel through the shark aquarium where you can watch sharks and sting rays swim over you.

The Iao Valley was the site of an epic battle between the armies of King Kamehameha I and the Maui warriors. The highlight of the valley is a 2500 ft rock pinnacle that was shaped by erosive forces. There is a $5 parking fee, and a short walk up a paved patth with lots of steps up to a lookout. There is a also a paved path down to the stream and an ethnobotanic garden.

Looking for a place to get massages, we found this on yelp. So they are not a massage parlour, more like a hair/nails/facial salon, but they have massage therapists on staff and have an area in the back of the salon that are set up with massage tables. For couples massages, they have a tent in the backyard next to a small water fountain

This was a good place to park and access the sandy beach with the baby waves. However, the Hawaii Guide Me app warns that currents can be strong when waves are big. Rick caught a few good waves body-surfing.

One last stop before the airport

Monica picked us up and took us straight to the North Shore. Luckily we arrived on the same day as a really solid swell was hitting. Got to hang out on the beach watching 12-15 ft Waimea.